“The Dabouki has been around since before the Roman Empire,” says Avi Feldstein, who’s been working with the variety since 2014 at Feldstein Winery. “There is no obligation to produce wine from local varieties, but if wine reflects the local terroir and the local variety is readily available, how can we not use it?” Of all the heirloom varieties on the list, Dabouki is the most common and widely used in the local table grape industry. It is also known to have a relatively neutral flavor, which accounts for its wide use in the production of arak both here and in Lebanon. Winemaker Amit Toledo explains that in addition to being local, its neutrality is one of the reasons he chose to use it in his vermouths. But one must assume that the more this variety is used for the production of quality wines, the more we will discover what it has to offer. “I believe that education is stronger than genetics,” says Feldstein. “I am sure that if we invest in it as we invest in other varieties, cultivate it for the production of quality wines, and allocate it better vineyards and plots, we will see great wines come out of it.”

Try: Feldstein Winery, Dabouki; Amit Toledo, Vermouth; Cremisan Winery, Dabouki